The gaudy abundance was provided by the grand strand of Myrtle Beach. Staying in the quiet serenity of elegance which is Pawley’s Island spoils you. You are surrounded by gorgeous homes with tree-lined streets connecting them with each other. Every tree seems laden with Spanish moss. Azalea bushes bloom on every corner. Wisteria fills the air with the smell of springtime on your short walk to the beach. But when you begin your drive north you must first get through Myrtle Beach, then North Myrtle Beach. That’s when you realize just how homogenized America has become. At each of the 15-20 stoplights on the 17 bypass there are the same gas stations, the same fast food, the same banks. In what used to be empty fields of hay and scrub pines, now there are Home Depot, Lowe’s and Hobby Lobby. In the distance there are Ferris wheels and high rise hotels side by side like LEGO towers. Millions of people travel here every summer when its hot as hell for their 12 square feet of sand at the base of these towers, then wait in line at Olive Garden for an hour every night for dinner.
But finally you clear out from all the excess and begin a slow meander on the only roads away from here—the back roads of rural South and North Carolina—which brings us to the the ugly, grinding poverty part of the journey home. We had just crossed the state line between the Carolinas when we happened to drive through the town of Chadbourn, North Carolina, population 1,564. There was a bumpy railroad crossing in the middle of town, on either side of which was evidence of what was once old tobacco warehouses. Now they are abandoned and overgrown with weeds. On either side of the long, dusty Maine Street we found one dilapidated house after another, some without roofs, others without doors or windows. Many of the worst houses were still inhabited by human beings, who set on barely serviceable porches looking out at their yards covered with old furniture, and old cars half shrouded by azaleas. By the time we got to the center of town we saw the husks of old brick buildings that probably once held drug stores, barber shops and hardware stores, now empty except for a thrift store and a tattoo parlor. The one fresh and thriving building held the seat of government for Chadbourn, the police station and the mayor’s office. Everywhere we looked in this sad little town we found the one thing that nearly every piece of real estate had in common. Trash. Mountains of it strewn this way and that in every direction. Just outside of town on the far side of an empty field we saw a long line of old beat up cars and washing machines at least the length of a football field. Driving through a town like this at 35 miles per hour does something to you. It’s the kind of experience that makes you Google the town when you get home to find an answer to the question, “what the hell happened to this place?” I didn’t find an answer except for the fact that 50 years ago Chadbourn was a growing town, busy and prosperous, a place where tobacco farmers sold and shipped their crops in the big train cars that stopped there. Ever since the 1990 Census, the town’s population has been declining. It’s a living ghost town.
Eventually, we made it back to Short Pump. We too have the same gas stations, same fast food and same banks. No trash though. The nicest buildings here don’t hold the government. I think the Henrico County Government Center was built in the late 1970’s.
But I wonder what will become of Short Pump fifty years from now when I’m long gone. Will the businesses that built this place be gone by then? Will new businesses have taken their places or will Short Pump be filled with run down houses, tattoo parlors and thrift stores?