I left the dock at 9:45. I brought my fishing rod but didn’t plan on using it very much. Despite there being a healthy breeze coming up from the south, and for the first time in the four weeks since I’ve been here…I had a plan. I would circumnavigate Quantabacook in a kayak.
The lake is 662 acres and I’m told by people who know such things that the perimeter of Quanty is 8.3 miles. In my 15 years or so of coming here every summer and most fall’s I have kayaked every part of it…but never the entire thing in one trip. The weather forecast yesterday was ideal, like it’s been almost everyday for four weeks now. There’s no time like the present, I reasoned as I pushed off from the dock at Fernwood, and I ain’t getting any younger or better looking.
My voyage started easy. The wind was behind me as I drifted by the old dance hall camp, an iconic structure that goes back over a hundred years I’m told. It was built right on the water with a long row of windows facing the lake. For me, it’s these windows that catch the rising sun’s reflection when I wake up across the lake at Loon Landing. By the time I reached the marshes west of Sheep Island I had passed houses great and small, little one bedroom camps and large family compounds. When I made the turn eastward at the marshes I paddled into a cross current which sent the occasional splash of cold lake water onto my legs. It was delightful.
Halfway around Sheep Island heading north I passed the construction site. There was a barge at the dock and the sound of hammers. The giant hulking frame of what will be the largest structure on the lake once completed, juts outward and upward through the pines. It looks twice as wide as the old dance hall. I happened to kayak by a few days ago when the owner was on the dock with her contractor. I asked her in as friendly a way as possible, “Whatcha building?” She answered in an equally friendly manner, “Just a house…I love this lake.” “I do too,” I answered as I drifted by.
At the turn I paddled past the eagle’s nest, the same one that has been there seemingly forever. No one was home. There are no chicks this year, a disappointment. I encountered a beautiful Golden Retriever taking a leisurely swim in a cove by himself. I think he belongs to the family who own the house on the north shore of Sheep Island, the one that always flies the Maryland State flag.
As I continued in calm still waters I encountered several large mansions high in the hills, hidden by the trees. I’m not in this neighborhood of the lake often so it’s easy to forget they are even here. They look large enough to accommodate a baseball team, as far removed from the bungalow camps that dominate most of the lake as it is possible to be. Nothing wrong with them, just very different from what I imagine when thinking about camps in Maine.
I finally reached the northern shore of the lake, three and a half miles from where I started. The wind had picked up and although my arms were holding up well, my backside was feeling it, along with my perpetually gimpy back. After passing the beautiful rocky, uninhabited cove at the northeast corner of the lake I turned south into the teeth of the wind. The next mile would be nothing but water and land. No docks, no homes, no people. Lucky for me, my ass and my bladder, I came upon a rocky beach that opened up to a large campsite that someone had built, a stone fireplace along with benches all around, the entire area blessed with a soft bed of pine needles. The view from the campfire spot was stunning. I took some time to stretch. I knew what was coming. The next three miles I would be into the teeth of what by now was a whitecap wind. Why do I come up with such ridiculous ideas?
Paddling into a stiff wind in a kayak isn’t at all difficult, I do it all the time. What’s difficult is doing it on mile 5-7 of a trip. I paddled past the fancy homes at the end of Walker Road feeling my back tightening up. Eventually I arrived in familiar territory, struggling past Matt and Sharon’s place, Summer Dreams, a place Pam and I have stayed for several years. Then I made it to our favorite cove on the lake, where the most iconic Maine camps can be found…the Warren place, Keith and Carolyn’s Loon Landing, our home away from home. I limped past Gil and Charles’ place then made the turn around the point for a straight shot down to the dam. When I made it down there among the lily pads, with the church steeple in the background I just let the kayak drift in the water for five minutes while I caught my breath. The last little stretch up the east side of the lake on the Pond Road side I was mercifully with the wind. By the time I drifted into the dock at Fernwood my GPS said I had paddled 7.62 miles in 3 hours and ten minutes. Obviously I cut a few corners, but all in all, I was proud of myself.
One thought that kept coming to mind as I paddled is that—isn’t it funny how there are many, many owners of homes and camps around this lake, but nobody actually owns the lake. But everyone who owns property here and also everyone who rents for seven weeks every year here, we all have a responsibility to Quantabacook. We are all charged with first—doing no harm to its beauty, and second to make it a better place for future generations in any way we can. There’s a larger point to be made about this that I hesitate to bring up but…it’s much the same way with our relationships with others, our family, our neighborhoods and our country. First, do no harm. And second, do whatever we can to make things better for the people who come after us.
One of the many pleasant thoughts that come to mind while drifting along on a beautiful summer day.